With waxing, the ski-base is impregnated with paraffin wax like a piece of furniture or leather. Not only does the wax protect it from oxidation but it acts as a lubricant on the snow. The oxidation is recognized by a bleaching of the base which loses its satin aspect (drying) which considerably increases the friction on the snow crystals.
By reducing the friction on the snow, the wax increases the glide and greatly improves the handling and the driving precision of the skis. Without this, the pleasure of skiing and snowboarding is less. Regular waxing help ski-base to remain lubricate and become especially slippery.
In the spring it is strongly recommended to wax your ski-bases without scraping the wax, this layer protects against oxidation, drying and soiling
Before waxing: the use of a hand brush or a rotating brush, ideally in very fine bronze bristles, allows the cleaning of the bases even to the depth of their fine structures. This energetic brushing also produces a texture favorable to the impregnation of the wax.
After waxing (and scraping the wax if it is hot waxing): brushing is ideally done with a hand brush or rotating horsehair. This releases the structure of the base and polishes the wax.
Note that the ski-bases are not smooth but have fine longitudinal structures that reduce adhesion especially on wet snow. The structures will be less deep for the cold snows and more for the wet snows. Waxing, especially hot, fills these structures you need to release by vigorous brushing.
For universal use we strongly advise against deep structures that interfere with the handling of skis and snowboards.
If, during the maintenance of the ski base, you see structures on the edge, their disposal by sanding with a long diamond file, used with a guide of fall, is essential for a good functioning of the skis and snowboards.
On a new ski or after grinding the base on a machine, the ideal is to hot wax 5 to 7 times (the first 5 to 7 days).
Then on the little abrasive snow (wet snow) usually a liquid waxing after each day with our liquid wax BO31 allows to replace a hot waxing hot which requires much more time.
If despite this liquid waxing at each day, the base becomes gray along the edges that means it must be hot waxing.
When the temperature is not indicated by the manufacturer, it is often between 100 and 130 degrees Celsius.
If the wax is hard to melt, the wax iron is not hot enough. If the wax makes the wax fume, it is too hot.
Warning ! according to the additives the smoke is toxic.
Yes, when temperatures go up, it is recommended to wax your skis with a wax for positive temperature, because they are softer waxes that slide better on the wet snow.
When air and snow temperature are cold, the crystals are getting abrasive, so the wax should be harder. A soft wax slips badly and wears quickly on cold snows. It is interesting to know that even if the air is warm, the temperature of the snow never exceeds zero degrees Celsius.
100% fluorocarbon, high fluorocarbon, hydrocarbon, universal: the difference between these types of wax is the level of more or less fluorinated paraffins.
When the indication is Hydrocarbon or NF, it is a non-fluorinated paraffin "NF". A universal wax generally has a non-fluorinated paraffin for a snow temperature of about -5 degrees, which is a common temperature.
When the temperature rises and you slip badly the wet snow sticks on the ski-base. Iit is necessary to use a wax with the high fluorocarbon content.
There are two main methods:
After cooling, the excess material (oversize) must be scraped, or grated with a plastic or steel scraper.
On a new ski or snowboard, it’s good to do 5 to 7 hot waxings (the first 5 to 7 days).